The London List Review: Plum + Spilt Milk RestaurantThe London List

Posted in Food, London, London List
By Sam Bathe on 21 Apr 2014

They say with fine dining, that you eat with your eyes before you taste with your mouth, and at Plum + Spilt Milk that starts the second you walk into the elegant dining hall. A long rectangular room with a wonderful bespoke, curving structure running down the centre, oversized tables and comfy banked seating fill both sides give the restaurant that immediate wow factor.

Plum + Spilt Milk is the restaurant of the recently reopened, and equally fantastic, Great Northern Hotel. Part of a £42m renovation of the iconic property, no expense was spared with the restaurant refit. From the big, comfy armchairs to the 120 hand-blown glass pendants that cascade from the ceiling, the interior is reminiscent of Bob Bob Ricard, chic, class and elegant, and it’s matched by the food.

The vision of Michelin-starred chef Mark Sergeant, the menu is not fussy, instead delivering excellence on a collection of enticing British dishes, with touches of extravagance and creativity that sets them apart. The dishes feel familiar and homely, yet there’s a cutting edge that makes Plum + Spilt Milk a real fine dining experience.

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With dinner we enjoyed cocktails that are also the brainchild of Mark Sergeant. With a manageable 10 drinks on the menu, all signature creations, the Lady Violet – pairing elderflower vodka with champagne and raspberry liqueur – and Northern Sour – pink grapefruit and lemon shaken with gin, cointreau and rhubarb bitters – both come highly recommended.

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Jumping straight into the mains, we had the Angus sirloin steak and loin of venison. Both were fantastic but the venison stood out in particular. Something most probably only eat while dining out, the cuts of loin were served with pancetta and sloe gin and ranks in the top 5 dishes I’ve ever enjoyed. The sides to share made a real difference too.

The chefs at Plum + Spilt Milk take real care in preparing the vegetables as well as the mains. We shared glorious buttered mash, steamed anya potatoes, winter greens and honey-roasted parsnips which were sensational.

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For desert, the restaurant offers its titular plum dish although we opted for the baked alaska, and while it didn’t quite match the brilliance of the main courses, it was delicious nonetheless. Doused in a healthy amount of alcohol before being set alight at your table, the baked alaska was a fitting finale to a fantastic meal, and big enough for three, never mind the two it suggests on the menu.

A suave and intimate setting, perfect for entertaining guests, catching up with friends or a effortlessly romantic date, the Plum + Spilt Milk floor plan allows for ample space between parties and you’ll feel like anything but sardines jam-packed alongside each other.

Little touches like the music in the room – modern rather than stuffy jazz – gorgeous menus and great crockery design really make all the difference and set restaurants like Plum + Spilt Milk apart from the nearly names across the capital. This restaurant is the real deal, and it won’t completely break the bank.

Plum + Spilt Milk is the star on the Great Northern Hotel’s lapel but deserves to be heralded as its own hugely successful venture. We’ll be coming back.

For reservations visit the Plum + Spilt Milk website here: www.plumandspiltmilk.com

Plum + Spilt Milk
Inside the Great Northern Hotel
King’s Cross Station
Pancras Road
London, N1C 4TB

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